The authentic ‘couturier’
Crafted in wild silk, with four large front pockets, the real focus of this trench coat is on the back, a characteristic feature of the designs of its designer, Cristóbal Balenciaga. With a yoke that embraces a pleated lower piece, the result is that the garment gains great volume and structure.
Although it dates from after the 1930s, we have placed it in this room to highlight the milestone that would change the history of fashion: in 1936, Balenciaga moved to Paris to escape the Spanish Civil War. A year later, he presented his first collection, which was a great success and confirmed his own words: ‘A couturier must be an architect for plans, a sculptor for shapes, a painter for colour, a musician for harmony and a philosopher in the sense of measure’.
Cristóbal Balenciaga was an object of admiration for all the designers of his time, and all those who would go on to create great brands dedicated a few words to the Basque designer at one time or another. Givenchy called him ‘the architect of haute couture’, Christian Dior called him ‘the master of us all’ and Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel considered him ‘the authentic couturier’. Unlike Schiaparelli, Gabrielle Chanel felt a deep admiration for Cristóbal, and the relationship between the Parisian designer and the Basque designer was always magnificent.
Cristóbal Balenciaga, born in the Basque Country, Spain, in 1895, was a master of haute couture, known for his impeccable technique and architectural approach to design.
In the 1960s, Balenciaga reached the pinnacle of his career, redefining the female silhouette with minimalist, structured creations such as the tunic dress, the baby doll cut and the egg-shaped coat. His obsession with perfection and purity of line set him apart, leaving a legacy of innovation and timeless elegance that continues to inspire the industry.
