Worth’s legacy
With an authentic jacket from the late 19th century, we pay tribute to Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) by recreating the outfit he wore in his most famous portrait.
This English couturier is considered by many authors to be the father of Haute Couture, due to the innovations he popularised and with which he conquered Paris during the second half of the 19th century. Thus, in addition to his innovations in tailoring, he is known today for being one of the pioneers in the use of brand labels to identify his creations and other commercial tactics, such as the use of models to present his designs, or giving importance to his main role as a creator. This narrative is supported by his remnant images, in which he poses with an artistic attitude.
Worth’s popularity would grow due to his wife’s networking skills, thanks to whom he had as a client Pauline de Metternich, who recommended him to the Empress Eugénie de Montijo, his future patron.
Moreover, it all takes place during the Second French Empire, when Napoleon III was aiming to boost the textile sector. Combined with the influence the empress had over the style of the court, Worth found himself in the perfect setting to develop his ideas.
Around 1870, design attention turned to the back with the emergence of the bustle. This structure, which had lost its volume at the front, was accentuated by the use of draped overskirts, lace and bows that adorned the tails of the dresses.
The bustle, for its part, went through various phases in which it was replaced by pillows and padding (1877-1882), became foldable (1883-1889), until it finally and inevitably disappeared in favour of freedom of movement as a means of female empowerment.
